Burgos

We’re into the second month of our trip and that means Spain.  We’ve visited much of Southern & Eastern Spain before so decided to focus more on the northwestern part this time.  But first, let’s talk about religious architecture (cathedrals in particular).  Anne & I have been fortunate enough to visit many of the great cathedrals of Europe over the years and I think I can safely say that the Spanish are generally the most ‘flamboyant’.  I used to think that was due to the strong Catholic influence, but I’ve concluded that it was more than that.  This was prompted by my difficulties in booking accommodation for the weekend of 12-14 Oct.  A check of Spanish holidays revealed that Columbus Day on 12 Oct (also ‘celebrated’ in the U.S.) is a major holiday here.  While increasingly controversial in the U.S. due to the treatment of Native Americans, it’s a big deal in Spain celebrating “‘Spain’s discovery” of the ‘New World’.  I realized that a lot of the construction periods coincided with the return of the Spanish treasure ships from the Americas.  You only have to go through a few Spanish cathedrals to see where a lot of that gold went to!

Anyway, our first stop was in Burgos, the home of the famous Spanish soldier of fortune, El Cid.  His tomb lies directly beneath the main dome of the cathedral, one of the first gothic cathedrals in Spain and a World Heritage Site in its own right.  While the exterior is rather ‘restrained’ and reminiscent of other gothic cathedrals in Europe, once you step inside, it’s all Spanish!  The level of carved decoration is astounding; the main dome especially so.  The ‘domes’ instead of being solid have glass in the area between the supporting vaults creating intricate eight pointed stars (Anne will have more on that).  The side chapels off the aisles are as opulent as any I’ve seen and deserving of being churches in their own right, being dedicated to wealthy patrons or clerics.  The Constable Chapel behind the apse has its own dome and is like a cathedral in a cathedral.  Needless to say it’s hard to take it all in.  We found Burgos to be an attractive city with some beautiful parks and walks along the river where the Spanish enjoy walking and visiting with friends on ‘Spanish Time’!  Next it’s on to Salamanca.